Owner Tapan Bose isn’t trying to reinvent the wheel with regard to north Indian cooking, but he has taken a lot of the oil out of many dishes, and made them more appealing. His samosas, with a complex vegetable filling, are the best in town, and he does an exemplary tandoori chicken as well. 8530 Warm Springs Road. 598-3663. Tue.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5:30-9 p.m.