This all-purpose food emporium and restaurant serves the best gelato in the city and a variety of well-worn Italian dishes in an ornately decorated restaurant. The menu doesn’t take many chances, but the minestrone Genovese, veal parmigiana and swordfish, done al salmoriglio, are all reliable. There is also a pleasant patio. 9500 S. Eastern Ave. 216-4088. Lunch and dinner, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sun.-Thu.; until 11 p.m., Fri.-Sat.