The first items on Union Biscuit’s menu are, fittingly, biscuits. Scratch-made buttermilk biscuits, to be exact, perfectly golden up top and pillowy inside, available with a choice of spreads ranging from honey butter to blueberry jam to pepper jelly. They’re very nearly a meal in themselves at $4 a pop, and they’re most definitely a meal when smothered in sausage or mushroom gravy with smoked paprika and chives ($9.25).
You might be tempted to assume that Union Biscuit is a specialty operation; you know, one biscuit to rule them all. (And it does, Gandalf; it does.) But this breakfast and brunch spot, with its melding of Southern U.S. and Korean flavors, excels at nearly everything.
That means the biscuit sandwiches—classic egg and cheddar ($7.75); Nashville fried chicken with coleslaw, pimento cheese and housemade pickles ($14.50); the Breakfast Club with Cajun chicken sausage, eggs, cheddar, bacon, avocado and blackened ranch ($14) and many more—are among the best you’ll find. But don’t let that dissuade you from investigating the “Not Biscuit” section of the menu. It’s replete with sweet, savory and spicy treasures.
I have sworn my lifelong devotion to Chicken & Pie ($16.50)—two sweet potato pancakes covered in maple bacon butter and served alongside a generous wedge of Nashville fried chicken. However, I usually swap the bird for spicy Korean-style fried chicken—also available on a biscuit sandwich with kimchi slaw—and I swear that combo has improved my life in measurable ways. My girl says the same about the French toast-style biscuits ($14) with cinnamon, candied walnuts and fresh whipped cream.
We split a $5 side of cheesy grits, a bowl of sunshine yellow gold, which a couple of Louisiana natives dining at the next table declared authentically Southern. (Union Biscuit imports their grits from South Carolina, just so you know.) And while we’ve yet to try the chicken fried chicken breakfast with gravy, eggs, hash browns and a biscuit ($17) or the Marsh Hen Mills heirloom stoneground grits with spicy gochujang roasted pork, kimchi apple slaw and a sunny side egg ($16.50), there are many weekends ahead to indulge myself.
Union Biscuit is the first restaurant from Vegas locals Kyung and Honey Lee, and hopefully not the last. It’s high-value; the seating and ordering are quick and efficient; vegans and gluten-free diners are seen and loved. And if you want to spread the good word among friends and family, a to-go box of six biscuits and two spreads is a reasonable $22. Try it. Try everything they’ve got.
UNION BISCUIT 8740 W. Sunset Road #100, 702-527-5491, unionbiscuitlv.com. Daily, 7 a.m.-3 p.m.
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