Reviews

Eatt brings health-conscious cuisine to daytime diners

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Eatt’s salmon club sandwich won’t weigh you down at lunchtime.
Photo: Mikayla Whitmore
Debbie Lee

It’s hard to believe that Eatt, a new lunch spot on the west side of town, was once home to a Firehouse Subs (and before that, a barbecue joint). With an emphasis on clean food for health-conscious diners, the space has been completely exorcised of its former ghosts. Gone are the industrial smoker and hot sauce bar; in their place are modern furnishings and (artificial but nonetheless bright and trendy) succulent plant arrangements.

More importantly, the food is a welcome addition to the dining scene. Yuri Szarzewski and Vincent Pellerin (chef and pastry chef, respectively) both bring Michelin-rated experience from France and apply it to casual, affordable lunchtime fare. A simple chicken breast ($13) is transformed into an artful composition with geometric shapes of pea puree, whole baby carrots and peas. The priciest entree, an 8-ounce Black Angus ribeye ($23) is cooked to the guest’s preference (my medium was spot-on) and accompanied by ratatouille. Layers of zucchini, peppers and eggplant are reimagined as pretty pinwheels—a small but thoughtful twist that doesn’t go unnoticed. It’s all made pretty quickly, but those with short lunch breaks can opt for something easier, like a salmon club sandwich or chicken wrap (both $9.)

Vegan and gluten-free options abound on the menu, so some dessert selections feel like misfits. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t sample them. There’s a small but diverse mix of impeccable classic French pastries (Paris Brest praline pastry, $6.50), exotic sweets (yuzu cheesecake, $6.50) and Viennoiserie (seasonal Danish, $3.50). Even a healthy bowl of fruit is elevated into something pretty—an order of fresh pineapple ($4.50) is diced to resemble tartare and served with pineapple chips.

Given its location, Eatt almost seems too ambitious for local tastes. But it’s undoubtedly an upgrade on chain sub sandwiches, and I’d encourage anyone in the area to support the restaurant’s efforts to bring good food to the ’hood.

Eatt 7865 W. Sahara Ave., 702-608-5233. Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

Tags: Dining, Food
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  • I have a hard time deviating from pastrami, but there are soups, bagel platters, burgers and other entrées.

  • Load up on the homemade salsas—a chunky mild, the medium green and an eat-at-your-own-risk spicy red.

  • Creative pies include the corned beef, ’kraut and caraway-coated Reuben and the Thai pizza with peanut sauce, chicken and mandarin oranges

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