Fried chicken right now is kinda like pizza was in the 1980s—it’s everywhere you look and in high-demand, but most Americans are getting it from fast-food franchises, which means it probably isn’t as tasty as it should be. If you’re looking for the real deal, bypass the drive-thru and head to a true chicken joint, where you can sit down and crunch your way through some delicious poultry fresh from the fryer.
The most recent arrival in this category is Golden Bird Chicken, which got its start in Detroit before relocating to Southern California in the 1950s and expanding with multiple locations in the LA area. It made its Vegas debut a couple months ago in a colorful but quiet shopping center on East Desert Inn Road between Pecos and Mojave; when you see that bright yellow building, you’ve found the right place. This is family-recipe fried chicken, homestyle fried chicken, set-off-the-smoke-alarm-like-Martin-Lawrence-in-Boomerang fried chicken.
If you’ve seen (or made) social media taste-test videos complaining about the lack of crunch in fast-food fried chicken, Golden Bird is the remedy. The thick, savory coating on this bird is like a delicious suit of armor protecting the ridiculously juicy meat within. A two-piece meal with your choice of side and a soft roll ($6.40 dark, $7 mixed, $7.50 white) is all you need thanks to generous portions, and family-size meals range from eight to 20 pieces for take-home perfection. Be sure to snag some truly indulgent mac and cheese with just the right amount of black pepper to complete the meal.
A tender, shredded barbecue chicken sandwich ($4) and fried fish ($8) and shrimp ($10) baskets round out the menu. The kitchen wisely changes up the batter for the seafood, going lighter with a more balanced seasoning, and the large, crispy shrimp are outstanding once splashed with some hot sauce.
If you’re going to indulge in fried chicken, do it the right way. If you don’t feel guilty afterward, does it even count?
GOLDEN BIRD CHICKEN 3244 E. Desert Inn Road, 725-277-2110. Daily, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
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