A handful of the Strip’s fine-dining palaces held off on reopening after last year’s pandemic restaurant restrictions faded, waiting for larger and more varied groups of Vegas visitors to return. The NoMad restaurant at the same-named eponymous hotel inside Park MGM—now known as NoMad Library—was down for 18 months. General manager Peter Lederman says his team was overjoyed to finally get back to work in this one-of-a-kind dining room. And this month’s arrival of a fresh fall menu ramped up the excitement further, allowing the kitchen to return to the full scope of NoMad cuisine.
That means the signature roasted chicken for two ($90), stuffed with foie gras, black truffles and brioche, is back, adjacent to an even more celebratory American Wagyu prime rib ($150) rubbed with porcini and black garlic plus all the trimmings, also designed for two (or more).
But you don’t have to ball out quite that hard to take advantage of these seasonal specialties. A salad of roasted sunchokes, dandelion greens, grapes and hazelnuts ($17) makes for a perfect round two after a half-dozen chilled oysters ($26) with invigorating “cucumber snow.” Prepared tableside with togarashi, tamarind, horseradish, shiso and chili, the tuna tartare ($26) is unlike any version you’ve had.
Ricotta cavatelli ($29) with fennel sausage, grana padano cheese and a bit of black truffle brings all the richness without going overboard. And while indulgent side dishes like lobster and truffle mac and cheese ($29) demand your attention, the subtle and seasonal roasted honeynut squash ($14) with sage and lemon ricotta is just as satisfying. Heck, it feels downright festive.
NOMAD LIBRARY Park MGM, 702-730-6785. Thursday-Monday, 5-10 p.m.
