Italian is one of this country’s most prevalent ethnic cuisines, and while the Las Vegas Valley might not be New York City, it doesn’t lack for traditional red sauce joints. And innovation in local Italian cuisine has trended strong in recent years.
Enter Henderson’s Rosa Ristorante, reuniting Bellagio’s Prime Steakhouse alumni Rob Moore (chef and owner) and David Oseas (general manager) at a welcoming suburban venue far from the Strip. Rosa’s location feels a bit random, seemingly dropped into an office building fronting St. Rose. But don’t let that dissuade you from a legitimate Italian meal.
Rosa is shaped from the flavors of Moore’s youth in a New Jersey Italian-American household. His upbringing is obvious from the classics scattered across the menu, beginning with starters like savory cheesy risotto fritters ($16), also known as arancini, which deliver on their advertised cheesiness, or expertly fried, cornmeal-crusted crispy calamari ($16) accompanied by a piquant marinara sauce.
Among pasta options, the highlight is the rigatoni alla vodka ($24). The creamy vodka sauce, sprinkled with chunks of sweet and hot sausage in a nod to Moore’s grandmother’s technique, delivers pleasant saltiness in every bite. It’s a true destination dish.
Because of the chef’s time at Prime and Jean Georges Steakhouse at Aria, it’s not surprising to see him offer a selection of steaks. But he also plays with flatbread pizzas that shouldn’t be overlooked, especially considering their $10 happy hour tariff. The mushroom pizza ($18) particularly shines, hints of lemon providing a subtle contrast to the white pie’s earthy roasted mushrooms. Clearly Moore is just as at ease serving comfort foods as steakhouse fare.
Other highlights across the menu include a crisp amberjack crudo ($24) brightened by preserved lemon vinaigrette, and a flavorful prosciutto and melon salad ($24), which seamlessly melds sweet and meat. Both light dishes are especially welcome as we enter the swell of summer. A bit heavier—but no less tasty—is the Alfredo mac and cheese ($10). Balance it out with the broccoli rabe ($10) rife with garlic and chili flakes.
Rosa also serves as a great watering hole. Oseas’ cocktail menu includes a refreshing gin-based Pineapple-Basil Smash ($15) and a more challenging Margarita Fra Diavolo ($15), the latter delivering quite a bit of heat. And a pleasant surprise is an Amari selection compiled by assistant general manager Danny Crinson. Don’t miss the Fred Jerbis ($13), with a much less herbal flavor than the nose would lead you to believe.
Rosa is already a hit with neighbors clamoring for a homey, go-to Italian joint. Now it’s time for you to check it out.
ROSA RISTORANTE 3145 St. Rose Parkway #120, 702-478-9200, rosaristorante.com. Sunday-Thursday, 3-9 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 3-10 p.m.
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