Gluttony is my favorite deadly sin, so imagine my joy upon discovering a restaurant named for it as part of the most recent spate of Downtown openings. Located across from the similarly Downtown Project-backed Eat, Glutton is also worth the trip to the city’s core, even if it isn’t exactly a shrine to its namesake.
The name simply doesn’t reflect the subtlety of the menu, assembled by chef and owner Bradley Manchester. Wood-roasted shrimp ($15) excels with a sop-worthy bacon scampi butter (though I wanted more smoke in the otherwise fantastic dish). And mushroom poutine ($11) is a glorious mess, with sharply-flavored pickled mushrooms proving a fine foil to the cheese curd-covered poutine’s inherent richness. It could be so much messier, but once again, Manchester wisely works for moderation.
Following an ever-growing and popular trend, Glutton has bread and butter ($5) on the actual menu. In this case, it’s Parker House rolls, accompanied by house-made pickles. And when your baked goods are this good, there’s no shame in being compensated for it. Likewise, the meaty and juicy Glutton burger ($14) is delivered with an ample amount of char on the patty between a light and airy house-baked bun. The only thing amiss is the “American cheese”—a combination of four cheeses including, surprisingly, American, that has great flavor but a strange grittiness that seems almost artificial. It’s a minor qualm for what is otherwise a destination dish.
While some offerings are mainstream, Glutton isn’t afraid to explore the path less traveled. The unctuous chicken liver mousse ($8) is complemented by smoky grilled bread and a sweet port wine jelly. And the Buffalo-style sweetbreads ($11) are a gateway into the awfully tasty world of offal. Essentially a play on Buffalo chicken wings, the glands are rife with Frank’s RedHot and delivered atop a sharp blue cheese mousse.
You can also assemble a reasonable meal from the vegetables lurking about the menu. Shaved Brussels sprouts ($11) doused with pungent tahini vinaigrette succeed with refreshing hints of dill, while the wood-fired curried cauliflower ($10) intertwines traditional Indian spices with almond butter.
Glutton’s beer selections are just as interesting—including Stone’s Xocoveza ($10) Mexican chocolate-tinged sweet stout—but are trumped by entertaining cocktails. I’m infatuated with the well-balanced Pig Roast with bacon-infused mezcal, crème de peche and a hint of tartness from Hawaiian li hing powder. It’s refreshing with smoky undertones that don’t overwhelm. And the Glutton for Punishment ($10) is an alcohol-forward combination of gin and aquavit softened through barrel-aging.
Glutton is a welcome entry in Downtown’s fast-moving culinary scene. Manchester toiled away in neighborhood casinos for years, but here his food’s in the limelight, and he’s making the most of the opportunity.
Glutton 616 E. Carson Ave. #110, 702-366-0623. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. & 5-10 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-10 p.m.