Taste

Pho Win 9 brings big flavors to the west Valley

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Grilled pork vermicelli noodle bowl
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Soothing and satisfying Vietnamese pho is conveniently available throughout the Las Vegas Valley, but there are still small pockets around town that could use a few more bowls of this specialty soup. Once you move west beyond Rainbow Boulevard, it’s not as abundant as other Asian cuisines.

Pho Win 9 is filling a void at Durango and Flamingo. It opened in the fall, and its casual yet elegant dining room is as relaxing as the pho broth is fragrant and delicious. If you stick with the standard pho dac biet ($10)—beef noodle soup with rare steak, well-done brisket, beef ball, tendon and tripe—this version will hit the spot. Those varied cuts will fill you up, but the flavorful and aromatic broth is the star. Lighten up with vegetable and fried tofu pho ($9) available with that brilliant beef broth or an all-veggie option.

Not all local Vietnamese eateries also offer a huge Chinese food menu. Pho Win 9 does everything from wonton soup ($8.95) to honey walnut shrimp ($11.95) to Mongolian beef ($10.95) but specializes in barbecue pork ($7.95 as an appetizer) with dishes like egg foo young ($10.95), fried rice ($8.95) and pan-fried noodles ($9.95).

Maybe save that stuff for takeout night. Other Vietnamese dishes are definitely worth exploring, including a perfect vermicelli rice noodle bowl ($11) with grilled pork, chicken or shrimp, vegetables and crunchy cha gio egg rolls. Like the rice plate options, you’ll want to douse everything in fish sauce to accentuate the varied flavors and textures.

Pho Win 9 also serves pho sate ($10), sometimes hard to find at all those other pho parlors. It packs in plenty of rare steak and a heavy dose of sate sauce, loaded with chilies, lemongrass and garlic, and the broth is thickened with peanuts. It’s a serious soup.

PHO WIN 9 4075 S. Durango Drive #106, 702-804-8933. Daily, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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