Taste

Vibrant new Mexican eatery Mariposa reinvents its flavors

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Photo: Wade Vandervort

Mariposa Cucina & Cocktails was set to be the next big thing, a high-energy Mexican restaurant serving up rustic, homey cuisine and vibrant drinks along with music and other entertainment, custom-built for locals and centrally located at Sahara and Decatur.

But it opened in early December when winter was setting in and the pandemic was wreaking havoc on the restaurant industry in Las Vegas and pretty much everywhere else. After two months, it shuttered temporarily, holding out for an increase in capacities.

Mariposa reopened in April with a slightly different approach and a different chef in the kitchen. Former El Dorado Cantina, Rainforest Café and Roy’s chef John Baez streamlined the menu and added some true crowd pleasers, focusing on flavors instead of traditions.

“If you come in expecting to be offered red or green sauce on your enchiladas, you might be disappointed,” he says. “It’s definitely not traditional Mexican. We’re trying to bring some interesting takes and feature some different ingredients in familiar dishes like our salsas.”

Your first basket of warm chips with smoked tomato and roasted serrano salsa is complimentary, but you might want to experiment with the spicy charred habanero variety after that. Too hot? Cool off with the grilled pineapple and mango salsa ($5) or strawberry kiwi salsa, refreshing and slightly sweet bites.

Mariposa’s enchiladas have quickly become a big draw, likely because Baez and his team are crafting specialized sauces to align with each filling. Served with refried or borracho black beans and achiote or green rice, crab and lobster enchiladas ($28) are topped with a cool avocado and cilantro cream sauce, while tender shredded chicken ($18) is complemented by tangy mole verde. Even the simple cheese enchiladas ($17) are topped with a rich smoked adobo sauce.

Braised beef short rib enchiladas ($21) get a complex ancho chile-cherry sauce, but the decadent meat is the star of the dish. It’s also available as an entrée ($30) with roasted potatoes and grilled vegetables, in a giant burrito ($18) with guacamole and Oaxacan cheese, or anchoring an addictive taco platter ($18).

“We definitely want to put our own unique twist on everything, and my big thing is flavors,” Baez says. “If you look at the menu, you’ll see each individual dish is built on big flavors that work together well.”

Rounding out the offerings are an ahi tuna ceviche appetizer ($15), pozole with braised pork ($12), the Painted Lady salad ($12) with chorizo, pickled onions, heirloom tomatoes, avocado and tomatillo ranch, and more burrito,taco and fajita options. For dessert ($10), choose between tres leches cake, churros or flan.

Mariposa maintained its live entertainment programming, offering everything from DJs to salsa dancers to a violin soloist Thursday through Sunday nights, and its colorful cocktail program also remains an essential part of the restaurant’s identity. Returning to the flavor focus, there’s much more than margaritas, including a prickly pear paloma ($12), the fruity Floradora ($13) with color-changing Empress gin and raspberry puree, and the popular Terremoto (Spanish for “earthquake”) made with pinto grigio, triple sec, pineapple juice and pomegranate liqueur. During happy hour, all those signature drinks are two-for-one, and coconut-lime margaritas are $5.

It’s already had some ups and downs during its brief existence, but this is one fun and familiar Mexican restaurant that’s ready to put the past where it belongs and celebrate just the way you want.

MARIPOSA COCINA & COCKTAILS 2575 S. Decatur Blvd., 702-476-3330. Daily, 4 p.m.-midnight.

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Brock Radke

Brock Radke is an award-winning writer and columnist who currently occupies the role of managing editor at Las Vegas Weekly ...

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